• Kelley Bayern

Makin' Moves, Makin' Gains

I am, once again, extremely motivated. All summer long I've been in this lull. I wasn't able to get out into the mountains as much as I wanted. It seemed like the mountaineering season ended way too fast, and it was too hot to climb outside in the Eastern, Washington heat and smoke. Work doubles and the occasional six day week through most of summer ate away at my spirit and my muscles. My climbing abilities (and physique) took a pretty big hit.

However, the tables have turned since my workplace hired more staff. I now have my weekends back and have hit the walls scrambling. Since late August, I've focused on a new diet and lifting plan to lean down so that I can climb harder. I was previously obsessed with a bodybuilding style training plan. That wasn't going to work anymore, since it doesn't focus on performance, and rather appearance. I am trying to send high 5.11's or even a 5.12 route by the end of this climbing season. I want to be able to run a marathon. I need to be eating carbs instead of slamming so much protein. I have been cross-training like a maniac to get there.

For the last three weekends in a row, my friends and I have hit the local crags in Eastern, WA. I've surprisingly been sending 5.10a-c's on top rope and have been feeling pretty accomplished. When I stopped climbing in April, I was just barely sending 5.10a's. I guess my weight lifting in the gym all summer long has kept my power in check. My endurance and confidence high up on the walls will only strengthen the more I get out. I also scored a two month membership to our private climbing gym in town. That will help with training and I plan to get there at least twice a week.

So, aside from my current weight lifting and climbing, I've also been running a lot more. In late September, a few of my friends and I will attempt a thru-run of the Enchantments near Leavenworth. I have done this hike in a day, but we will be attempting to "run" it where we can this time around. I have no idea how long this will take since my endurance is still in the works. I will say roughly 10 hours or less.

I feel so good to have some goals set up and to see progress right in front of my eyes. Wish me luck on my run and hope I can tag a high 5.10 route soon. First Smith Rock trip in four weeks! ⤲


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Follow my thoughts, ideas, and adventures as I prepare to summit the tallest peaks in the Pacific Northwest.

Hello. I'm Kelley and I'm a bear.
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